4 weeks & 4.000 km in South Africa

[Two Plugs]

We make good progress and in the early afternoon we arrive at our next accommodation, Glenavon guest farm. Glenavon is the third guest farm we visit as accommodation, but is totally different than Gonara or Low Lands. The main house is beautifully situated in a lush landscaped garden which can best be compared to an English park. We sleep in the cottage, which is a little further from the main building.

It starts to rain and the temperature is fading rapidly. Fortunately, the cottage has a beautiful cast iron fireplace and we got the fire started. We feel a bit like the three little piglets from the fairy tale with the big bad wolf.

Fortunately, in our stonebuild, thatched cottage, with a roaring fire, a good bottle of delicious South African wine and 3 comfortable rocking chairs. Ah ... Live is though in the Eastern Cape…

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

We leave Glenavon early in the morning. Today there is again a decent portion gravel on the program and we suspect that the gravel roads in this region could well be in less good shape than the roads we had before. The storm which a few days ago blew away the heatwave, has definately left its flushing mark ...

It shows! We manage to maintain a decent speed, but the storm changed the corrugated road in a bouncing ball pit with a vengeance. The rainfloods flushed away the gravel toplayer of the road and especially on slopes, revealed the rocky surface underneath.

We feel more than happy as we arrive at Kuzuko Game Reserve (www.kuzuko.com). The bikes are left behind in a enclosed parking at the entrance building. From here we will be transported by Toyota Landcruiser; we arrived at the Addo National Park, famous for its elephants but also lions and it seems that motorcycles and these majestic beast are not a good (… safe…) combination. The reception at the Lodge is simply excellent; including hot flannels to free your face and hands from dust. Christine, the location manager, welcomes us and we relax on the terrace after a long 'bouncy' journey. The beautiful lodge is located beautifully: on the high hill, with views as far as the eye can see…

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

The philosophy behind the organization of Kuzuko is just right: not just a tourist attraction, but an organization that is actually involved in the rehabilitation of South Africa's rich nature, but supported by the use of local knowledge and human power to benefit the local economy. Arlo, a young ranger 22 years old, will be our guide for the next two days. He enthusiastically tells about his work, his love for South Africa and the rich nature. Immediately there is a click between the "Three Little Pigs" and their proud guardian;)

Michael and Johan go on an evening game drive, I work the blog. Arlo joins us for diner and manages to persuade Johan and me to join him on a early morning hike to some caves with historic petroglyphs. We are treated to a fantastic walk. From the overhanging rocks we see in the green valley below us giraffe, zebra, kudu and ostriches. It seems the Serengeti in miniature. The petroglyphs are particularly well preserved and a little shamefully Arlo shows us a petroglyph which clearly suggests a group of people which, obviously, have some intimate affection for each other. Kamasutra in the Karoo!

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

FINALLY. Finally some asphalt! Nothing wrong with gravel, and the BMuu F800 GSA feels like this is its natural habitat. But after ten days of dust bite and bouncing around, being an untrained offroad rider I am starting to get tired. I’m having difficulties to stay focused, there for I feel happy that an tar road is taking us over the Olifantskoppass. From now paved roads!
We are on our way to the town of Addo, where we will stay for two nights. Great opportunity to update the blogs, sort out photos, and clean both gear as bikes. After passing Olifantskoppass, nature is slowly but obviously affected by the Indian Ocean. The low shrubbery gives way to lush green forest; agaves make place for banana palms.

Crislin's African lodge (http://chrislin.co.za/) is easily found and located in the largest Citrus Growing area of South Africa. Orchards with mandarins, lemons and oranges fill the warm air again with a wonderful fragrance. We move into our spacious, beautiful accommodation and are treated to the most delicious sandwich I've ever had..

Johan and Michael go out for an afternoon adventure with an 'experience zip line "(kind of rappelling, but different), but due to an old back injury I decide to update the blogs and do some research in the pool of Crislin's African Lodge.
The dinner that follows is fantastic! In the last 16 years that I visited South Africa, actually never eaten badly, but what the Chief of Crislin’s put on the table is simply sublime. Jean, a young guy that drives a well-organized kitchen crew, is a kind of Jamie Oliver of South Africa. Humble and proud of what he and his team performs. Even if you are not staying overnight at Crislin's, his restaurant is worth a visit.

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

The breakfast is just as good. Michael and I are off for a canoe safari on the Sundaysriver – despite its Monday. Our guide Chin is again an enthusiastic guy who demonstrates a huge kind of knowledge of the local flora and fauna. The morning rushes by, despite the slow speed of the canoe. We see the osprey, the giant Goliath heron and numerous colored Kingfishers. This is true and certainly no blue Monday! Few people will associate Africa with a canoe safari Africa, but it is an absolute must. The people of Crisscross Adventure (http://www.crisscrossadventures.co.za/) are also well prepared and organized.

After lunch we are off for a game drive Crisscross Adventure, this time with a tough safari Landrover, heading for Addo National Park. In the late afternoon, we suddenly drive in the middle of a huge herd of elephants. Wow…. Majestically the giants of the Savannah move between the fynbos. Unbelievable that there are these morons who pay up to 50.000 USD just to shoot an elephant for fun. You hunt for pest control, or because you need food. Not because you have a big wallet. Period.
We see how two young Kudu bulls hold a contest and Zebra's enjoying an romance. A cheetah lies lazily under a pepper tree to come and energy to refuel before this fastest land mammal (70 miles per hour, 0-60 in 3.5 seconds and all without doping!) is back on the hunt for his evening meal.

Back at Crislin’s, we are tired of all impressions. What a great country South Africa is! And what is the Eastern Cape province surprisingly beautiful and diverse… where the general crowd visits usually the western Cape with Capetown and Kruger National Park in the north east, it’s the Eastern Cape Province where you will experience your real South African adventure!

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

We aim the beaks of the BMuus towards South Africa's Wild Coast and decide that the next two days we need to make some distance. But not before we get into the rustic Kareedouw - on South Africa's famous route '62' - with 'The Sweaty Dutchman’ to enjoy a traditional Dutch pancake.

Hans, the cheerful and friendly owner of the Sweaty Dutchman and additionally enthusiastic motorcyclist, receives us with a nice cup of old-fashioned self-roasted coffee and pancake with hot cherries, whipped cream and ice cream. This really is the best pancake I've ever had! We chat and joke about motorcycles, motorcyclists, discover that choosing between two motorcycles is more difficult as choosing between two women and is actually close to mental self-flagellation. "Buy a KTM need an ATM ... buy a BMuu, costly repairs will come to you”, and even the Japanese bikes are not spared.

Fortunately Dutch - also in South Africa – don’t lack any self spot! As Hans pulls his BMuu F650 Dakar from the barn attracts we find that it is really late and we say goodbye.
We still have 40 miles to go and decide to swap the boring N2 for the 'old' main coastal road. Truly the best choice! The old road winds through pine forests, vast meadows and beautiful white Cape Dutch farms. What a BEAUTIFUL and stunning landscape, ideal for a fantastic motorcycling tour! Shortly before Jeffrey's Bay the motorcycles are refueled and fifteen minutes later we ride in to Jeffrey's Bay, where we - again - are warmly welcomed by Estelle of Seashells Inn & Apartments. We move in to our apartment - almost a presidential suite on the top floor - and after the bikes are parked in the parking garage, we walk along the beach to the lively center of Jeffrey's Bay.

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

Finally, finally the Indian Ocean at our feet! The beach is dotted with the most fantastic and colorful shells; the surf is really fantastic and I can well imagine that JB, as Jeffrey's Bay is called, is particularly popular among surfers.

We take a Castel Lager in one of the many pubs and have almost direct contact with the locals. At Restaurant 'Nina's, a tip from our hostess Estelle, I enjoy the most delicious cod I've ever had. Johan and Michael take a ... Pizza! You know, that boring Italian plate that you can get on every street corner in the Netherlands and you can microwave from each supermarket fridge. It’s obvious that I need to do some mission work to bring the taste of my companions on a culinary responsible level ... This is for God’s sake South Africa, a country with one of the best international kitchens on the Planet! It’s like going to Paris to dine in the Mc Donalds, horrible! The tasty, white South African wine is a great help.

We return to our ‘Seashells’ suite and under the sound of the surf on the beach, I fall into a deep sleep. Probably a consequence of the same white wine ...

[Two Plugs]

[Two Plugs]

Our first night at the Wild Coast is in the Meander Inn, in the city of East London. This beautiful colonial city is the gateway to South Africa's Wild Coast, coming from Cape Town and Port Elisabeth. The name of our beautiful accommodation, Meander Inn, is going to be synonymous for the roads we will ride the upcoming days.

Owner William Ross invites us to his bar and quickly follows our first real braai: BBQ elevated to a culinary art as only South Africans can do. Not on the electric Weber or the over-the-top gas outdoor kitchen, but a BBQ as only real men can: On coal from the fire that has just ignited!

The next day we leave for our first stop at the mouth of the River Kei, in Kei Mouth. As closer we get to the coast, the more the landscape changes: vast, green hills that are so characteristic of the Transkei and it was these hills, where Nelson Mandela was born and grew up. The vista is breathtaking; green hills, and along the top colorful little houses of the Xhosa tribe strewn like the colorful stars in a bright winter sky. Schools go out when we come near Kei Mouth; and again we are greeted enthusiastically by the waving children.