Honda Adventure Riders Forum
General Category => Ride out & Touring reports => Topic started by: Two Plugs on February 04, 2015, 09:34:11
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Its been to long since I visited South Africa: 2008. I was doing a report for a Dutch motorcycle magazine (as photographer) on the Limpopo Province, Mpumalanga, Mozambique, Drakensbergen (‘ Dragonmountains’) and Swaziland following the path of the historic anglo-farmers war in the 19th century, riding a Buell Ullyses which was kindly provided by Harley Davidson Pretoria.
Finally, finally I’m back in to the South African summer, fled from the winter which covers the northern Hemisphere! Again as photographer, this time for the Dutch motorcycle magazine ‘Promotor’. I thought the report would be interesting to you guys 'n girls here on ADV, but please forgive me for any mistakes in my English... I had to translate it from my Dutch blog at www.grotetrek.blogspot.com (http://www.grotetrek.blogspot.com) (Dutchies and Afrikaners: have a look there)
I did started this new year with a new ride... but it wasn't mine ;) Got you all with that! :-*
Provided with a nice BMuu F800 Adventure which will be the perfect match for the grounds I will cover the next 4 weeks. After a warm and friendly welcome by my good friend and Truimph owner Johan Kriek and Helen (www.toerboer.co.za (http://www.toerboer.co.za)) we picked up at the BMuu at Motorrad Rentals in Centurion, former known as Verwoerdburg. As we drive towards Centurion ride I realize it: Moerse! (Afrikaans for ‘ feeling good’) What is this South Africa still a beautiful country. And especially because it feels like I've never been away. Albert Franck from Motorrad Rentals turns out to be a nice guy, providing us with a delicious espresso and explaining all about the BMuu and accessories provided by motor Radical (www.motorradical.co.za (http://www.motorradical.co.za))
In the afternoon I visit the local mall to buy a SIM card for my smartphone and at the local Pick 'n Pay supermarket, I get a few bottles Mrs. Balls Chutney and Braai Salt to take home when I return back to the Netherlands.
In the afternoon the grill is turned on for an South African Braai (BBQ). We are invited by Johann (double NN indeed) Potgieter and his wife Loraine. Again a most charming guy. Apparently I leave, as foreign guest, a good impression, because the next day, very early, the phone rings: Johann calls to invite me to join him for a bikers breakfast run on Sunday morning.
Half an hour later, the BMuu pleasantly simmers behind Johann’ s Harley Fatboy Pretoria towards the Kitty Hawk Aerodrome, just a few miles outside of Pretoria. On Sunday, countless motorcyclists gather here for breakfast. As an airplane enthusiast, I enjoy antique propeller aircraft and high-tech Gyrocopters (Auto Gyros) entering almost to the terrace. After breakfast, we continue towards Cullinan, known not only for the fact that the largest diamond ever found here (it has been chopped and been used in the British Crown Jewels), but also as gathering point for touring in the neighboring hills.
The place to be is "Harrie's Pancakes” at Oak Lane 112. And finally, finally I get my melktert, a typical South African pastrie: in the shape of a pancake with melktert stuffing! Johann’s Harey appears quite thirsty, so after a delicious cappuccino with pancake we pay a visit to the local gas station and return to Pretoria. What a nice start for this new South African motorcycle trip! Today it was truly, "Moerse!". The South African word which actually covers the whole day.
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The trip from Pretoria to Parys (on the Vaal, not the Seine) is progressing well. Because there are also some BMuus with chain instead of a shafty I stop in Silverton at Twisted Throttle, a local motorcycle clothing- and motorcycle accessories store to get a spraycan chain lube.
It is at 10 o'clock in the morning when I turn on N1 highway towards Cape Town. It is already quite hot but the trip from Pretoria to Johannesburg is progressing well. A beautiful four-lane motorway gives broad view of the economic capital of South Africa. Johannesburg clearly shows that South Africa is making progress on developments. High skyscrapers dominate the skyline of the 'city'.
I follow the N1 / M1 'South' direction Soweto. Soweto is perhaps the most famous district of Johannesburg for the role it played during the apartheid regime. Anno 2014 Soweto has turned in to a trendy suburb! Unfortunately, the beak of the BMuu this time aimed at Parys. Traffic signs with should direct me towards Soweto however stay away ... and suddenly, I’m following a rural four-lane highway, the R82 towards Vereeniging. Funny how quickly and almost imperceptibly, you’ ll get out of a metropolis and a busy motorway into the green province of Gauteng. The quality of the asphalt, despite a single pothole, is good.
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At a gas station I decide to take a short brake, to buy a bottle of water and some food and to consult the map. My intuition proves correct: Although I am no longer on the N1 tolroad, but on the right path towards Parys. No wrong choice ... The R82 winds through forests, hills and grassland towards Vereeniging.
The city of Vereeniging is bustling. The BMuu’s dash shows that it is now 33 degrees Celsius, and in combination with the many traffic lights and busy traffic in Vereeniging I’m getting warm. Due to the heat, I abandon the idea of stopping at a café for a cappuccino and melktertpie and continue riding. Parys is ahead. In the distance, the mountains surrounding Parys already appear at the horizon.
Not "just" mountains, but the outer edge of one of the potentially most unknown jewels of South Africa: The Vredefort Dome, World's oldest and largest impact crater of a meteorite on land. Listed as UNESCO World Heritage! It’s around noon when I arrive at my good friend Jopie. The BMuu disappears in the garage, and the wonderful Castle Lager beer is chilled in the fridge. We reminisce in the shadow of Jopie's date palmtree and turnes midnight quickly. Tomorrow I'm going to take the BMuu Adventure exploring the extensive network of gravel roads in the Vredefort Dome.
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Imagine ... a piece of rock, with a diameter of 7 miles, coming in at 22.500 miles per hour (try that on your Hayabusa!) crashing into the Earth's surface. This is exactly what 2,000 million (!) Years ago happened in contemporary South Africa. The result: 'Deep Impact', a crater with a diameter of more than 200 miles, stretching from Johannesburg in Gauteng province to Welkom (what's in a name) in the province of Free State into the North West Province. I’ll leave the National Geographic details in this report for what it is, but the Vredefort Dome - the largest and oldest meteor impact crater on Earth and UNESCO world heritage - has one of the most beautiful and least known areas in South Africa to do adventure riding by bike. The rustic village of Parys, providing numerous accommodations and great restaurants, is excellent as central point for exploring the Dome.
From Parys I drive through the R53 on the Vaal River Road to turn left immediately after the bridge, on the KoppiesKraal Road. From now, the only thing you need to do is just to keep continuous left. The dirt roads are fantastic; the BMuu feels like a fish in the water and I thoroughly enjoy - but only after I've turned off the ABS and traction control and put the ESA setting to 'Sport'. Now we really are on the loose!
In the small village Venterskroon I stop at the visitor center for some information. A few hundred meters further I discover the 'fossil remains' of an old Zündapp motorcycle on a wall at a café. Thirsty from the dust and with dangerously low caffeine levels, I stop for a cup of coffee. The Old Imperial Inn recently opened and owner Leon is a very good guy who knows how to attract thirsty bikers. And as so often: the parked BMuu proves attractive to fellow bikers. As I enjoy my coffee, two big R1200GS Adventures pull up alongside the F800.
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George Crocker and Leon Nel live in Johannesburg (an hour away) and their Dome is for them a large nearby playground. We chat about motorcycling, Promoter Magazine, the BMuu’s and the Dome. Nice blokes, George and Leon. Shortly before we continue driving, a 4x4 pickup truck pulls over.
The driver appears to be the project manager who is responsible for the management on the World Heritage Site on behalf of the North West Province, Mr. Mohau Maputle. Mohau turns out to be a huge BMuu fan, but also talks enthusiastically about his work for UNESCO and the Dome. It are these unexpected encounters, which color the day.
I follow the fantastic gravel slopes through the Dome towards Schoemansdrift, enjoy the drifting BMuu, friendly people and the green landscape. Every passer - black or white – is greeting me enthusiastically and scarce oncoming 4x4s throttle back to avoid that I have to bite in the dust. At the Schoenmanshoekdrift I take a break and drink a bottle of water on the banks of the Vaal River. In the late afternoon, when I return at my friends place in Parys, I covered 75 miles but it could have been 200.
I end another wonderful day in stunning South Africa with my good friend Jopie at O's restaurant on the Vaal River. The next 3 days there will be no motorcycling or blog, but time to visit friends, to clean the Beemer and await the arrival of my colleague Michiel van Dam and guide Johan Kriek. Next Sunday our 'Great Trek' really starts of with our ride in to the Great Karoo dessert!
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The reunion with my good friends Johan Kriek and Michiel van Dam in Parys is celebrated with a delicious dinner at O's Restaurant (www.osrestaurant.co.za (http://www.osrestaurant.co.za)) at the Vaal River in Parys. My friend Jopie is also invited. Again, a cozy 'African' evening. The next morning starts with a joint breakfast at 'Secret Places" (www.secretplace.co.za (http://www.secretplace.co.za)), a beautiful, spacious guest house in the middle of Parys where bikers are welcome. Chef cook Lizzy - herself an enthusiastic biker and owner of a beautiful classic Moto Guzzi California - is cozy and entertaining and provides us with some useful tips for our more than 500-kilometer tour today.
"Watch out, it's going to be hot!" both Jopie and Lizzy evoke at us, as we leave Secret Places. We refuel the bikes and visit the Sunday Biker Breakfast run where Parys - like Cullinan – is famous for. Again there is an elated, enjoyable atmosphere. Parys in South Africa has given us a very hospitable and welcoming impression. Not least also because of the brilliant 'Vredefort Dome’ with its extended diversity of gravel roads and the story of the ‘Deep Impact’ that which occurred here 2,000 years ago. What a pleasant place to start a motorcycle trip through South Africa!
However, we leave Parys, South Africa, with mixed feelings ... Because the tragedy which shocked the FREE WORLD a few days earlier in the French capital Paris (the brutal terrorist attack on innocent civilians and journalists) has also seeped though to us ... We are working as reporting team 'on the road' for Promoter Magazine and the brutal, respect less murder of our colleagues and innocent, unarmed people in Paris does make us feel sad. Very sad.
Through the vast Free State province (Orange Free State), we ride our bikes south towards Kroonstad and Welkom; and we even pas Virginia! When we arrive at the Welkom city limits after riding 200 kilometers, we can now vividly imagine how big the impact of the meteor must have been ... the crater wall extends to Welkom! The road is beautiful and we are able to put down an considerable distance. Although it is high summer, it is amazing how green the Free State province is. Both nature, as the vast cornfields are fresh and green; framed in a beautiful azure blue sky with a few white clouds.
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We continue to follow the N1 southbound; it is quiet on the road on this sunlit Sunday afternoon. Again, I am positively surprised positively on the quality of the South African road network. It has been barely 8 years since I was here, and its obvious that there has been done much to bring the infrastructure in good order. Along the way loom large dump sites; excavated rubble from South Africa’s gold- and diamond mines. South Africa is working with nature preservation; the dumps are ecologically friendly replanted with indigenous plants to make this artificial hills part of nature.
After a short break in the shade of some large trees we continue towards Bloemfontein, known for its university. We have now covered 300 kilometers at still 200 to go; this Sunday is truly a 'transit' day to get as far south as possible in any case. Covering a huge distance doesn’t mean it is boring; after every hill and every corner the landscape changes. Before we arrive in Norvalspont at our hotel, we decided to make a short detour to the Gariep Dam.
Again, both BMuu’s and the Triumph Thunderbird are treated to beautiful, winding roads and when we arrive at the Glasgow Pont Hotel (formerly Hotel Norvalspont) in the late afternoon, another warm welcome is shared with us. After a hearty dinner, we go to bed early. The next day we won’t need to ride a huge distance; but with a predicted temperature of 40 degrees Celsius we decide to have an early start to our next stop in the historical town Graaff Reinet, the pearl of the Karoo Dessert.
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The next day we leave Norvalspont early to refuel the bikes in Colsberg and buy water for its riders... Something we will need later that day ... not yet aware of what awaits us this morning. The road to Middelburg is beautiful; the hills are slowly turning in to higher mountains and we come across a number of mountain passes: Carltons Heigh (1,630 meters), Loot Mountain Pass (1,781 meters) and Naudésberg Pass (1446 meters) treat us with views and twisty, circuit a like roads.
After the Naudésberg Pass we clearly feel that something has changed; both on flora and on the temperature. Along the way agaves are in full bloom; with stems pointing in the azure sky up to 13 feet. A forest of flowering agaves! We stop halfway Graaff Reinet in a ‘Padstal ', a typical South African roadside shop. Often also an excellent opportunity to have a drink or something to eat.
We continue our route towards Graaff Reinet; the temperature on the BMuus dash now shows an incredible 40 degrees Celsius; and it's not even noon yet! Moments later, the air temperature rises just briefly to 43 degrees Celsius ... Lucky we arrive in Graaff Reinet where we are greeted by our charming hostess Chantal of Karoopark Guesthouse (http://www.karoopark.co.za (http://www.karoopark.co.za) /). We park the bikes and are invited to come in and enjoy a refreshing drink in the cozy bar. Then showering, enjoy lunch, photos and update blogs, jump in the pool and what follows is an incredible evening with Chantal driving us by car to the Valley of Desolation for one of the most magical sunsets that I have ever experienced.
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Johan rides along on the BMuu R1200GS Adventure, because we still have to have at least need one motorcycle for the snapshots. The Valley of Desolation national park is about 15 miles outside Graaff Reinet and was founded by a wealthy resident of Graaff Reinet; and owned by the WWF. The management is in the hands of the South African National Parks. We drive through a small, winding road up towards the most spectacular viewpoint you can imagine; from the entrance gate still some 10 miles. On our way we see mountain zebra (recognizable by the white belly and almost extinct 20 years ago), ostriches, sprinkbokken and kudu. When we arrive at the viewpoint, Johan is already waiting with a big grinns on his face. Indeed ... this kind of roads is much more fun to ride on a adventurebike than a Hyundai SUV. But then... we had climate control... ;)
We walk the hikingtrail to the viewpoint and wait for the sun to slowly disappears behind the horizon. There are moments, created by a combination of company, circumstances and environment that relieves you from the issues of the day. The high temperatures of the morning and our friends and family at home in the cold, wet and windy Netherlands are forgotten instantly. The Castle Lager as a perfect companion for one of the finest 'sundowners' that I have ever experienced. It is now 16 years ago when I came in Graaff Reinet for the first time; when we got into conversation by chance with a restaurant owner, and told to him that we where just passing by, his statement was: "You can not leave without seeing the sun go down in the Valley of Desolation." The good man arranged on spot accommodation, we stayed and saw the sun go down in the Valley of Desolation ... Fortunately, there are those valuable things in life that do not change and the 'sunset in the Valley of Desolation' is one of them ... We return to the car and suddenly, just a few yards from the parking lot, suddenly a Kudu antelope raises his head with distinctive horns; a surreal image that contrasts with the rapidly darkening sky. A better, more magical way to end this day, we could not have wished for.
Satisfied and tired of the heat, we go to bed. Fortunately Karoopark guests stay in comfy air conditioned rooms.
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The next day, after an excellent breakfast buffet, we again are on a city tour with Chantal. Graaff-Reinet is really special, for us Dutch mainly because of the role that we played in the history of this beautiful place: it was the farthest inland post of the Dutch East India Company.
Graaff Reinet can be explored by foot easily. Luckily, yesterdays heat wave was of short duration; and we walk at ease and comfortable through the historic center. More than 200 buildings in Graaff Reinet are listed as "National Monument", and Chantal proves to be not only an excellent host and guide, but also knowledgeable in the history of the city. Chantal tells the story in an almost playful way, without being boring or dusty.
The afternoon we decide to spend at the swimming pool of Karoopark. From tomorrow, we won’t have access to the internet so the blogs and pics have to be kept on hold for the next coming two days. We are not alone ... The parking lot is full of brand new VWs, Audi’s and a procession of brand new Mercedesses arrives. The Karoo appears, after Death Valley in the US, to be the new playground for European car manufacturers to come here to test their new cars extensively. The stickers on the cars, especially considering the fact that they are shipped here and tested by German manufacturers, the country without speedlimits on the Autobahn, seems bizarre ...:
"High speed test vehicle approved by government." That’s the bumbersticker I wanna have too! ;)
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A visit to South Africa isn’t proper done without a visit to one of the many Townships. There have been many obvious changes to the Townships since my last visit in 2008. Of course you still see Townships with poor shelters created from rumble, plastic sheeting and chipboard; but increasingly are – on large scale - projects set up provide a simple stone cottage; with electricity and running water. Whether or not organized by the government or a private organization.
The people are very friendly; even though racial segregation still exists in the Townships. People from the most humble origins - often descendants of the original tribes - live poorly; while colored people have now climbed up on the social status to neighborhoods with modest, stone houses, equipped with a green garden and wide, paved streets. Impressive is the visit to the cemetery. A vast necropolis which makes it clear that HIVand AIDS are stil proliferate in the Townships. An estimated 3 to 5 inhabitants of the Townships infected with HIV; death from HIV or AIDS is however a taboo and is not to be mentioned in the death register. You die from an illness, but the course of death will never be named AIDS. It is sad to say that even the president - Jacob Zuma - suggests that after intercourse with an HIV-infected partner, a proper shower with shampoo should wash away this terrible decise...
From Graaff-Reinet we ride in the direction of Nieu Bethesda. It rumbles in the air, and we see the lightning strike over the mountains. The heat wave is definitely over; and we need to put on rain gear for the very first time during this trip. Threatening skies accompany us and create a surreal scenery for us as motorcyclists, and the beautiful landscape of the Karoo. The road to Nieu Bethesda is beautiful. If the asphalt again gives way to gravel, I enjoy the playful nature of the F800 Adventure and the ease with which the BMuu dances across the gravel paths.
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We stop at a local brewery for a small lunch and of course to sample the local beer. The golden ale tastes great, but after two sips of the Dark Roast my guts tell be that I better should change for a coffee. Michael and Johan continieu with the Dark Roast and even a second one... The following evening the toilet becomes a grateful companion for the poor guys ;) Sometimes it is good to rely on your instincts! Nieu Bethesda is a kind of ‘artists' colony. You have to love it; despite that it is a little weird. The village is known for the "Owl House" from "Mrs. Helen”. Helen Martins was marked by a though life. In 1974, she committed suicide by drinking acid. A terrible thought. How deep the scars in your soul should be to take such a dramatic decision? Her house and garden are full of art; for me not the pleasant sight I usually connect with works of fine art. Helen Martins images show a tortured soul. We take pictures, but both Michael if I don’t feel happy in the Owl House. There is a dark, uncomfortable atmosphere in the house. As if the spirit of Mrs. Helen still wonders around ... The book "The Road to Mekka" is loosely based on the life story of Mrs. Helen. I don’t feel encouraged to read it.
We ride out again and after 10 kilometers, once again beautiful, winding gravel roads are making me smile. We arrive at the Ganora Guest Farm just after noon. We are welcomed by owners JP and Hester and when we returned after a short walk on the farmyard - located in a beautifully, lush green valley - and a fantastic diner, we enjoy a fantastic, clear starry sky as you can only witness in Africa.
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JP, the owner of Gonara Guest Farm, does not let us leave without having measured my height. After measuring my 6,8 ft precisely, I seem to be the 2nd tallest guest who has stayed on the Gonara Guest Farm. Above the doorway, a dash is added with a permanent marker. It should not be a surprise that the other tallguy was... Dutch as well.
Before our ride to Cradock, we visit a historical site with ancient petroglyphs (ancient rock art) of the San People, which can be found everywhere in Southern Africa . The top layer of the sediment consists of hard volcanic rock, where softer sedimentary layers are worn away by erosion. Under these overhanging cliffs, the San People found a safe haven and could shelter from the elements. Actually, we dance (with our bikes...) on a volcano!
It is hot - much warmer than 16 degrees Celsius during yesterdays rain - so we saddle the bikes for a ride towards the next guest farm, Low Lands in Cradock.
Johan guides us up to a fantastic route, for almost the entire part on the gravel roads of the Karoo. Both Michael and I are amazed at the ease on which which Johan steers his thick Triumph Thunderbird over the gravel roads. During a short break, Johan gently pets the fat Cruiser on its bulky tank: “Triumph, jou ou doring! Seil behoorlijk oor hierdie lekkere Karoo gruis paaie!!” (“Triumph, you old bastard, I sail together with you over these tasty Karoo gravel roads!”) he shouts on to the social media.
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We wade through several rivers called 'drifts'. The traction control and ABS on the BMuu are once again switched off to enjoy the unpaved roads of the Karoo. Colleague Michael thinks that for the pictures, it would be funny that I, including the BMuu, would ride up on the rocks of the river bed... What the F*, who is the photographer !? ;) I don’t get hazard money paid! What if I would be washed away by a sudden emerging freshwater tsunami, including the Beemer, desperately clinging to the proper bulletproof Motorradical panniers, washed away towards the Indian Ocean? The flood remains off and soon we are both back on the 'gruispad’.
What a great ride today. The Matis Enduro tires of the BMuu eagerly grab the loose gravel and let ferocious dust clouds behind. If we perceive the signs to Low Lands Guest Farm, the driveway turns out to be slightly longer than the average Dutch farm, 10 miles... Ah, who cares? After all, we do enjoy the playful ride that much, that our lunch with Vetkoek, Koeksisters, Melktert and Mrs Balls Chutney can wait a little longer!
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After another great breakfast with fresh tropical fruits we are off and ride to Cradock, the largest town in the area. Again, we enjoy beautiful roads and great views, which has become almost naturally.
In Cradock our stocks are replenished (both motorcycles and their riders) and we continue riding to Sommerset East, but not before Michael stuck a miniature 'wind pump' to the Motorradical topcase of his BMuu. The weather is excellent, sunny, 20 degree Celsius, so actually ideal for motorcycling. 50 Kilometers after Cradock we reach the Dagga Boer Padstal (farmstall) (www.daggaboerfarmstall.co.za (http://www.daggaboerfarmstall.co.za)) which has been declared as 'best Padstal of South Africa'. The funny thing about the name ... "Dagga" means nothing more or fewer as weed, marihuana as you wish, but let that be the only thing which is NOT available. The fine South African melktert is!
The road winds through the landscape and provides again excellent views. Also notable ...: Roadworks in progress everywhere! I already noticed that the roads are in far better shape as back in 2008, but they are obviously proper maintained too. Slowly, this country is changing to the better. As we get closer to Sommerset East, the vegetation changes: the small bushes that we saw in the Karoo, give way to lush green and high spurge cacti. The fields with sheep and dairy cattle make way for extensive orchards of citrus trees; which on this beautiful, now somewhat humid summer day spread a wonderful fragrance.
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We make good progress and in the early afternoon we arrive at our next accommodation, Glenavon guest farm. Glenavon is the third guest farm we visit as accommodation, but is totally different than Gonara or Low Lands. The main house is beautifully situated in a lush landscaped garden which can best be compared to an English park. We sleep in the cottage, which is a little further from the main building.
It starts to rain and the temperature is fading rapidly. Fortunately, the cottage has a beautiful cast iron fireplace and we got the fire started. We feel a bit like the three little piglets from the fairy tale with the big bad wolf.
Fortunately, in our stonebuild, thatched cottage, with a roaring fire, a good bottle of delicious South African wine and 3 comfortable rocking chairs. Ah ... Live is though in the Eastern Cape… ;)
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We leave Glenavon early in the morning. Today there is again a decent portion gravel on the program and we suspect that the gravel roads in this region could well be in less good shape than the roads we had before. The storm which a few days ago blew away the heatwave, has definately left its flushing mark ...
It shows! We manage to maintain a decent speed, but the storm changed the corrugated road in a bouncing ball pit with a vengeance. The rainfloods flushed away the gravel toplayer of the road and especially on slopes, revealed the rocky surface underneath.
We feel more than happy as we arrive at Kuzuko Game Reserve (www.kuzuko.com (http://www.kuzuko.com)). The bikes are left behind in a enclosed parking at the entrance building. From here we will be transported by Toyota Landcruiser; we arrived at the Addo National Park, famous for its elephants but also lions and it seems that motorcycles and these majestic beast are not a good (… safe…) combination. The reception at the Lodge is simply excellent; including hot flannels to free your face and hands from dust. Christine, the location manager, welcomes us and we relax on the terrace after a long 'bouncy' journey. The beautiful lodge is located beautifully: on the high hill, with views as far as the eye can see…
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The philosophy behind the organization of Kuzuko is just right: not just a tourist attraction, but an organization that is actually involved in the rehabilitation of South Africa's rich nature, but supported by the use of local knowledge and human power to benefit the local economy. Arlo, a young ranger 22 years old, will be our guide for the next two days. He enthusiastically tells about his work, his love for South Africa and the rich nature. Immediately there is a click between the "Three Little Pigs" and their proud guardian;)
Michael and Johan go on an evening game drive, I work the blog. Arlo joins us for diner and manages to persuade Johan and me to join him on a early morning hike to some caves with historic petroglyphs. We are treated to a fantastic walk. From the overhanging rocks we see in the green valley below us giraffe, zebra, kudu and ostriches. It seems the Serengeti in miniature. The petroglyphs are particularly well preserved and a little shamefully Arlo shows us a petroglyph which clearly suggests a group of people which, obviously, have some intimate affection for each other. Kamasutra in the Karoo!
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FINALLY. Finally some asphalt! Nothing wrong with gravel, and the BMuu F800 GSA feels like this is its natural habitat. But after ten days of dust bite and bouncing around, being an untrained offroad rider I am starting to get tired. I’m having difficulties to stay focused, there for I feel happy that an tar road is taking us over the Olifantskoppass. From now paved roads!
We are on our way to the town of Addo, where we will stay for two nights. Great opportunity to update the blogs, sort out photos, and clean both gear as bikes. After passing Olifantskoppass, nature is slowly but obviously affected by the Indian Ocean. The low shrubbery gives way to lush green forest; agaves make place for banana palms.
Crislin's African lodge (http://chrislin.co.za/ (http://chrislin.co.za/)) is easily found and located in the largest Citrus Growing area of South Africa. Orchards with mandarins, lemons and oranges fill the warm air again with a wonderful fragrance. We move into our spacious, beautiful accommodation and are treated to the most delicious sandwich I've ever had..
Johan and Michael go out for an afternoon adventure with an 'experience zip line "(kind of rappelling, but different), but due to an old back injury I decide to update the blogs and do some research in the pool of Crislin's African Lodge.
The dinner that follows is fantastic! In the last 16 years that I visited South Africa, actually never eaten badly, but what the Chief of Crislin’s put on the table is simply sublime. Jean, a young guy that drives a well-organized kitchen crew, is a kind of Jamie Oliver of South Africa. Humble and proud of what he and his team performs. Even if you are not staying overnight at Crislin's, his restaurant is worth a visit.
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The breakfast is just as good. Michael and I are off for a canoe safari on the Sundaysriver – despite its Monday. Our guide Chin is again an enthusiastic guy who demonstrates a huge kind of knowledge of the local flora and fauna. The morning rushes by, despite the slow speed of the canoe. We see the osprey, the giant Goliath heron and numerous colored Kingfishers. This is true and certainly no blue Monday! Few people will associate Africa with a canoe safari Africa, but it is an absolute must. The people of Crisscross Adventure (http://www.crisscrossadventures.co.za/ (http://www.crisscrossadventures.co.za/)) are also well prepared and organized.
After lunch we are off for a game drive Crisscross Adventure, this time with a tough safari Landrover, heading for Addo National Park. In the late afternoon, we suddenly drive in the middle of a huge herd of elephants. Wow…. Majestically the giants of the Savannah move between the fynbos. Unbelievable that there are these morons who pay up to 50.000 USD just to shoot an elephant for fun. You hunt for pest control, or because you need food. Not because you have a big wallet. Period.
We see how two young Kudu bulls hold a contest and Zebra's enjoying an romance. A cheetah lies lazily under a pepper tree to come and energy to refuel before this fastest land mammal (70 miles per hour, 0-60 in 3.5 seconds and all without doping!) is back on the hunt for his evening meal.
Back at Crislin’s, we are tired of all impressions. What a great country South Africa is! And what is the Eastern Cape province surprisingly beautiful and diverse… where the general crowd visits usually the western Cape with Capetown and Kruger National Park in the north east, it’s the Eastern Cape Province where you will experience your real South African adventure!
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We aim the beaks of the BMuus towards South Africa's Wild Coast and decide that the next two days we need to make some distance. But not before we get into the rustic Kareedouw - on South Africa's famous route '62' - with 'The Sweaty Dutchman’ to enjoy a traditional Dutch pancake.
Hans, the cheerful and friendly owner of the Sweaty Dutchman and additionally enthusiastic motorcyclist, receives us with a nice cup of old-fashioned self-roasted coffee and pancake with hot cherries, whipped cream and ice cream. This really is the best pancake I've ever had! We chat and joke about motorcycles, motorcyclists, discover that choosing between two motorcycles is more difficult as choosing between two women and is actually close to mental self-flagellation. "Buy a KTM need an ATM ... buy a BMuu, costly repairs will come to you”, and even the Japanese bikes are not spared.
Fortunately Dutch - also in South Africa – don’t lack any self spot! As Hans pulls his BMuu F650 Dakar from the barn attracts we find that it is really late and we say goodbye.
We still have 40 miles to go and decide to swap the boring N2 for the 'old' main coastal road. Truly the best choice! The old road winds through pine forests, vast meadows and beautiful white Cape Dutch farms. What a BEAUTIFUL and stunning landscape, ideal for a fantastic motorcycling tour! Shortly before Jeffrey's Bay the motorcycles are refueled and fifteen minutes later we ride in to Jeffrey's Bay, where we - again - are warmly welcomed by Estelle of Seashells Inn & Apartments. We move in to our apartment - almost a presidential suite on the top floor - and after the bikes are parked in the parking garage, we walk along the beach to the lively center of Jeffrey's Bay.
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Finally, finally the Indian Ocean at our feet! The beach is dotted with the most fantastic and colorful shells; the surf is really fantastic and I can well imagine that JB, as Jeffrey's Bay is called, is particularly popular among surfers.
We take a Castel Lager in one of the many pubs and have almost direct contact with the locals. At Restaurant 'Nina's, a tip from our hostess Estelle, I enjoy the most delicious cod I've ever had. Johan and Michael take a ... Pizza! You know, that boring Italian plate that you can get on every street corner in the Netherlands and you can microwave from each supermarket fridge. It’s obvious that I need to do some mission work to bring the taste of my companions on a culinary responsible level ... This is for God’s sake South Africa, a country with one of the best international kitchens on the Planet! It’s like going to Paris to dine in the Mc Donalds, horrible! The tasty, white South African wine is a great help.
We return to our ‘Seashells’ suite and under the sound of the surf on the beach, I fall into a deep sleep. Probably a consequence of the same white wine ...;)
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Our first night at the Wild Coast is in the Meander Inn, in the city of East London. This beautiful colonial city is the gateway to South Africa's Wild Coast, coming from Cape Town and Port Elisabeth. The name of our beautiful accommodation, Meander Inn, is going to be synonymous for the roads we will ride the upcoming days.
Owner William Ross invites us to his bar and quickly follows our first real braai: BBQ elevated to a culinary art as only South Africans can do. Not on the electric Weber or the over-the-top gas outdoor kitchen, but a BBQ as only real men can: On coal from the fire that has just ignited!
The next day we leave for our first stop at the mouth of the River Kei, in Kei Mouth. As closer we get to the coast, the more the landscape changes: vast, green hills that are so characteristic of the Transkei and it was these hills, where Nelson Mandela was born and grew up. The vista is breathtaking; green hills, and along the top colorful little houses of the Xhosa tribe strewn like the colorful stars in a bright winter sky. Schools go out when we come near Kei Mouth; and again we are greeted enthusiastically by the waving children.
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Shortly before Kei Mouth, we visit Kei Mouth Motorcycle Museum and speak briefly with the somewhat eccentric owner, Willy Nell. More than 480 motorcycles are gathered here in numerous sheds in a landscaped tropical garden. The vast collection of English, German and Japanese motorcycles clearly expresses the heart of a motorcycle enthusiast: expect no immaculate restored showpieces, but just a very solid collection of motorcycles and paraphernalia showing Willy's love for motorsport and engineering.
We take the ferry across the Kei river, which is somewhat exciting. Exciting, because the motorcycles have to be reversed on the slippery, wet deck. Cinch for me with my 6,8ft and agile F800, a little more difficult for Michiel on the R1200 GSA and quite an adventure for Johan on the Triumph Thunderbird which after all has a turning circle like an ocean tanker.
With combined forces (thanks to the friendly crew of the ferry) we depart the ferry on the north bank of the Kei river where the Transkei now really begins: ‘Gruispad’, yes, the gravel! I rarely drove gravel roads (except in the Vredefort dome) that are so beautiful, so wonderful winding through the hills of the Transkei. As closer we get to our accommodation (www.trennerys.co.za (http://www.trennerys.co.za)) so much more I tend to accelerate. “Man, dis bevok, dis lekker!”
The only thing which reduces our speed are the cows and goats which crosses the road every now and then. But at the end of our first day to South Africa's Wild Coast or reward is a dip in the pool and again with an excellent dinner we look back on a fantastic introduction to this area. From now on it can only get better!...
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The happiness of staying over in an accommodation which lies at the end of a superb gravel road? You need to do ride the same way again! And that's what we do with pleasure, after all the bolts and screws on the Triumph Thunderbird are tightened again. Yet I am surprised how Johan with his big 1600 British battle cruiser manages to maintain between the German violence of Michael's R1200GS ‘Bismarck’ and my F800 ‘Destroyer’ ;) Involuntarily a known satire from Faulty Towers by the British actor John Gleese pops up in my mind:... "Whatever you tell them, do not mention the war ! "
Johan now seems fully unleashed and while Michael seems to give up the fight, I do not! That mad South African guy on his Cruiser Bling Thing will not get away from me on this twisty gravelroad, never! Johan however has two centuries of riding experience in this field and is there for a complicated prey. Actually more because his rear tire, as wide as an interstate highway, blowing tons of dust in the atmosphere completely taking away my clear sight so I decide to keep a certain distance ...
We are guests in the Kob Inn today (www.kobinn.co.za (http://www.kobinn.co.za)) and actually we don’t have to ride that far, but the road to the Kob Inn seems to take centuries. In the small town of Willow Vale, we decide to take a short break. Willowvale dates from colonial times and the grandeur of this village is to be read from the now dilapidated estates and mansions. Willow Vale has become a typical African village teeming with life. Everywhere there is something going on, everywhere seems to be traded something from livestock to car parts and anywhere those damned Toyota taxis erupt like mushrooms from the potholes in the road.
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The locals show their interest in our bikes. Whether it is a Triumph Thunderbird, or a big BMuu: they only want to see one thing and that is a look at the dashboard ... How fast it goes. I leave them to believe that the 240 km/h on the dashboard of the F800 is for real instead of telling them that it might be a little optimistic.
After Willow Vale a small 20 miles of gravel are waiting but after yesterday we feel that we can do anything wrong. The quality of the road is again superb - if gravel may bear this designation - and again we reff up the bikes over the meandering gravel ribbon which carries over and through the hills of the Transkei. "Man, di's Bevok!" Shouts Johan just about what means' he is very happy and in his element. Which we gladly confirm.
The Kob Inn is found quickly - not so difficult, because there is nothing else in the area - and this time we're really on the Indian Ocean, which seems to be at the end of the World. We have a fantastic view of the surf crashing on the rocks; and the nearby tropical beach calls: Come, and get me! Paradise exists. Even at the end of the world!
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The Transkei is where Nelson Mandela was born and raised in the small village of Mvezo; our first stop for today. On the hillside where the village of Mvezo is situated, currently a huge complex dedicated to host Nelson Mandela's birthplace museum is being build. At this time there is not a lot to see and the Rondawel where Nelson was born is far from original but a rebuilt copy. Taking pictures is not allowed. The guard who shows us around is however helpful and tells about the future museum. The village is connected with the N2 motorway by a beautiful new brick road that winds through the hills.
We decide to continue to the Mandela Museum in Quno. What appears to be a disappointment... Architecturally a beautiful piece of constructural engineering, but as so often, the architect was guided by personal preferences, creating a monumental construction to which local resources for maintenance are lacking. Especially since the museum content falls short, despite our enthusiastic guide. There is one large room with a copy of Mandela's cell on Robben Island (but for that you should visit Robben Island itself) and a number of incoherent text posters lining the walls. From the initial primary school, at which Mandela received his first education as a young buy, only a faint elevation in the landscape is left.
We decide to aim the beaks of the BMuus at Coffee Bay. It is warm, and we yearn for the coolness on the coast and are glad we can leave the N2 again. Unlike the previous two locations, the road to Coffee Bay is completely hardened. In principle, it is simply the "old" gravel road which is provided with a layer of asphalt. But OMG what a road! In the corners, the asphalt is laid in an angle just like on a racetrack. The asphalt sticking to the tires as sandpaper and we enjoy the wide panoramas which changes after every hill.
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The road to Coffee Bay can rightfully compete with the most beautiful winding roads in Europe. In fact, I dare say that this way is much better! Colorful Rondawels, vast grasslands and tropical style woodland provide stunning scenery. Was the landscape to Kob Inn and Kei Mouth dominated by vast grasslands, here is the vegetation more lush, almost exuberant. The smells, the colors ... the distance we ride is so joyful that any notice of time slips away. Before we are aware, we reach Coffeebay. After the last hill we drive down towards the Indian Ocean. The vista is breathtaking ... Coffee Bay is located on a sort of enclosed lagoon and it is one of the most beautiful entrances that we will experience on South Africa’s Wild Coast.
Coffee Bay is mostly known as a destination for backpackers; we are guests at the Ocean View hotel. A slightly dated family hotel, surrounded by a tropical garden and unlike the previous two accommodations with direct access to the beach. And ... with a beach bar!
Isn’t it odd? ... the entrance of Coffeebay is more impressive than the Mandela Museum in Quno. But today we finish our 'Long way to Mandela’ at the beach of Ocean View! Mission accomplished.
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Thank you for sharing Bernard! Everything is white here since 1,5 month; and it is very exotic ( to see some bike ;D )
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Getting greener by the minute ;D ;D ;D
Congratulations for such a nice trip,
Josep
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Fabulous report, you have a lot of luck and good friends there in SA .it's easy to see you had a ball. Thanks for sharing all those wonderful pics. ;)
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More to come as soon as I have sorted all pics and info! ;D
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Thank you for this complete report ;)
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OUTSTANDING :)
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From Coffeebay we ride back to the N2 and then to refuel the bikes just before Mthata. From here, we take the R61 back towards Port St Johns.
We thought that the way to Coffeebay was something special, but the R61 to Port St Johns offers superb riding pleasure. The asphalt is of impeccable quality and the rubber of the engine sticking to the road surface and sticks to the tires as glue. The hills in this part of the Wild Coast and the Transkei are higher than in the south, cut by deep, green valleys and strung together by the fantastic asphalt ribbon of the R61.
Just for Port St Johns, we are put to the side for a routine check by the traffic police. In South Africa a tax badge on your bike is obligatory - similar to that in Great Britain - and the friendly agent indicates to me that it has expired on December 31. I try to play the dumb tourist by stating that I have no idea what the best man is talking about, it's a rental motorcycle, etc which the police officer sober answers: "Its not a question, sir. I am telling you. ". Um ... Johan ... Help?
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Johan again proves a worthy tour guide and the misunderstanding was quickly resolved. The bike is indeed picked up on January 2 - in South Africa, a national holiday - and there for could the badge for 2015 not be mounted because www.motorradrentals.co.za (http://www.motorradrentals.co.za) was closed on both New Year's Day as January 2nd. Exceptions are there to be made.
Michael now has a lively conversation with the other officer, a rather big woman. I kindly ask if she would objected that I make a picture of them get along with Michael. Unexpected, the lady officer jumped on Michael and gave him such an firm hug, that she almost brought Michael ánd BMuu down... Timber!!! ;D
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In Steve's Pub in Port St Johns, we decide to have lunch and Johan knows to persuade me to take a curry dish typical of this area: A "Bunny Chow" consisting of a thick hunk of white bread hollowed out and filled with a delicious beef curry. It proves to be an excellent choice! Steve, the owner of Steve's pub has noticed us and joins us in a Triumph shirt. He traded in his Harley for a Triumph Tiger 800XC just three days ago and noticed Johan’s Thunderbird. Steve's pub hosts the local Biker Breakfast runs on Sundays and given the fantastic R61, Port St Johns also is popular as destination for motorcyclists. Port St Johns is also know for the infamous beach '2nd Beach' - famous for its paradisiacal location, but more notorious known as record holder for shark attacks in South Africa.
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We arrive at Mboyti river lodge in the early evening where we meet William from East Londen again. It's our last night at the Wild Coast and that makes us a little sad. Where most tourists to South Africa visit the Cape of Good Hope, Cape Town, the Garden Route and the Krüger Game Reserve, South Africa's Wild Coast is an undiscovered jewel inlaid in the emerald hills of the Transkei. We truly have enjoyed this place, the people, nature, landscape and the fantastic roads.
William joins us for breakfast and tells us how Mboyti came about. Thanks to the resort, the neighboring village has been provided with electricity, there is a primary school founded and even set up a medical practice. Local residents working on Mboyti, are trained. Yet this success also has a dark black edge... With an sad undertone in his voice, William tells us that over the last years 10 (!) of his staff died to HIV. Young people, in the blossom of their lives, who had mastered the catering business thanks to the training Mboyti offered. And often a family with (young) children are left behind. Our elated feeling makes way for a moment of silence ...
We say goodbye to Mboyti and drive the last piece of gravel this trip. We visit a fantastic view on the edge of a deep gorge, which houses the largest contiguous native rainforest of South Africa. Soon after, we travel through the largest tea plantations in the southern hemisphere. We turn again to the fabulous R61 and despite the fact that it is a working day, we have the R61 virtually to ourselves. We drive through Flagstaff and I cannot leave it to check in on Facebook to tag my American motorcycle buddy Trey Hall – MCI tour guide for Route 66 travels – to let him know that those R61 is really better that a bit overvalued R66 in the States – No offence!
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At Kokstad the bikes are refueled again and we leave the Transkei. We ride via the R517 in to Kwazulu Natal Province and the landscape changed again: we are now in the foothills of the famous Drakensbergen with a landscape which can easily compete with the Grand Canyon in the States or the Gorges du Verdun in France. Shortly after Howick, on the R103, I suddenly see a sign indicating an unexpected interest: "Nelson Mandela Capture Site”. Michael noticed the sign too and we decide to investigate his unexpected discovery. The spot, approximately 10 km after Howick in the Natal Midlands, appears to be the location where Nelson Mandela was arrested in 1962. Again, a construction site for a new museum to be opened in late 2015. If we visit the temporary museum, we conclude that this museum tells the through story of Nelson Mandela, far better than the museum in Quno. This museum does justice to Nelson and the battle he fought; and even the negative aspects of his presidency are mentioned: many employees have abused Nelson Mandela’s limitless trust and confidence in other people.
When we arrive in Nottingham Road, we are treated to a refreshment at the oldest hotel in Kwazulu Natal, Nottingham Road Hotel. Another place where bikers like to be seen guests. Shortly after we reach our accommodation, Waterford Manson and are welcomed warmly by the owners Liza and Tony. Leaving the fantastic Wild Coast made us feel a little sad, but our unexpected discoveries in the beautiful midlands of KwaZulu Natal have made up for it.
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If we repack our bikes after breakfast, we are pleasantly surprised: 3 weeks dust, dirt, insects, sweat and tears are gone! As an additional service, all three bikes are thoroughly cleaned. Which we can’t say for their three riders ...
For the first time in 3 weeks the weather doesn’t look that bright: there is a lot of rain expected; especially in the Drakensbergen Mountains on the border with the Kingdom of Lesotho and South Africa, precisely the area where we are heading today. From the breakfast table on the terrace, we see how gradually the contours of the Drakensberg mountains, far away on the horizon, slowly being swallowed by a menacing gray veil; like if a giant dragon veils its wings to conceal its den.
Anyway, the rain suits have today a more prominent - read: more accessible - place in the Motor Radical bags and we hit the road for the last leg of our Great Trek: Witieshoek Mountain Lodge in the Drakensberg.
And again we are lucky: a blue spot on the horizon breaks increasingly open and at midmorning the sun radiates its beams towards us from a clear blue sky. And again the landscape is undergoing a dramatic change, providing scenes in which we imagine ourselves as insignificant players. The majestic peaks of the Drakensbergen peak to almost 3,500 meters high and are the highest mountainrange in South Africa. In the language of the Zulus the mountain range is uKhahlamba, meaning "barrier of spears". The Drakensbergen stretch roughly from Lesotho through Swaziland to the north, where they change near the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana in the Soutpansbergen. The part around Lesotho is designated a UNESCO World Heritage and is known amongst offroad riders for the infamous unpaved Sani Pass, one of the most dangerous roads in the world.
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Our journey continuous via the excellent asphalt roads to the Northern Drakensberg on the Lesotho border, with Mont-aux-sorces (popularly called 'Mount Exhaust "(3.200m) because of the similarity of a cruise ship with chimney tower), and The Amphitheatre . The Amphitheatre is an 8 km (5 miles) long crescent flanked by two peaks, the Sentinel (3165 m) and the Eastern butress (3.047m). We spend the night at the foot of the Sentinel, at 2,200 meters in the Witieshoek Mountain Lodge.
After passing the town of Phuthaditjhaba, we ride up towards Sentinel Peak. Once again, we are treated to a fantastic winding road and ditto panoramas.
In the evening we are joined by Bruce McDonald, owner of www.motorradical.co.za (http://www.motorradical.co.za) and his buddies Jason and Diete, who drove up here from Pretoria on their bikes.
The next day, we hike up on the Sentinel. Standing on a rock ledge at over 2,500 meters altitude I feel almost like the ‘Lion King’. The hike to the top of Sentinel Peak (Google on it!) must unfortunately be aborted *sad*: Even in South Africa weather can suddenly change at over 2,000 meters and within minutes it gets foggy and temperature drops from 25 to 11 degrees Celsius ... As if the Dragon on the Drakensberg shares our sadness that tomorrow we have to return to the cold, icy West European winter…
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4 weeks and 4.000 km of share fun. I LOVE South Africa which is I think obviously; if I would hate it, I would have returned here for the 6th time! ;) I hope you guys 'n girls enjoyed my little write up here at this forum.
To my modest opinion, South Africa has an unjustified bad reputation 'exploded' in the public opinion, blown out of proportions. In all those years and the almost 30.000 km I have done with both car and motorcycle, I never encountered any problems and when there was a problem, local people where always resourceful and helpfully to help me out.
I can only recommend South Africa as your next travel destination. Its infrastructure is superb - better as most European countries - and the nation is well organised. Its still not as organized as f.e. my country (The Netherlands) or f.e. Germany, but THANKS HEAVEN for that. It combines a real African flair and atmosphere with European comfort.
Prices are still reasonable if travelling from the Euro zone (Fuel is below € 1,- per L, we paid € 70,- for a 3 course diner for 7 adults including 6 bottles of fine South African wine in a topspec seaside restaurant!) and the country offers a wide variety of accommodations; from luxurious game resorts, spa hotels, cosy Bed & Breakfasts, hostels, backpackerlodges and well equipped and safe camp sites to pitch up your own tent.
Leave your wristwatch back home. Cause the African's have all the time to give you South Africa's warmest welcome!
From this time experience, I would really recommend:
www.motorradrentals.co.za (http://www.motorradrentals.co.za) for their excellent service and the provided bike;
www.motorradical.co.za (http://www.motorradical.co.za) for providing the bikes luggage system;
www.toerboer.co.za (http://www.toerboer.co.za) for the local expertise & help.
For the Dutchies amongst the readers: Check the ANWB Promotor magazine, edit next March where the full story will be published.
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you made us an extraordinary trip Bernard ! Thank you very much for this very complete travel ;)
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Tnx Gilles!
We are currently looking if we can organise a trip like this one (or similar) locally, so a lot more affordable than if it is organized through an official travel agent.
I'll keep you guys posted on prices and itinerary as soon as I know more. The only thing interested members have to sort out is the flight from home to Johannesburg.