4 weeks & 4.000 km in South Africa

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[Two Plugs]

Johan rides along on the BMuu R1200GS Adventure, because we still have to have at least need one motorcycle for the snapshots. The Valley of Desolation national park is about 15 miles outside Graaff Reinet and was founded by a wealthy resident of Graaff Reinet; and owned by the WWF. The management is in the hands of the South African National Parks. We drive through a small, winding road up towards the most spectacular viewpoint you can imagine; from the entrance gate still some 10 miles. On our way we see mountain zebra (recognizable by the white belly and almost extinct 20 years ago), ostriches, sprinkbokken and kudu. When we arrive at the viewpoint, Johan is already waiting with a big grinns on his face. Indeed ... this kind of roads is much more fun to ride on a adventurebike than a Hyundai SUV. But then... we had climate control...

We walk the hikingtrail to the viewpoint and wait for the sun to slowly disappears behind the horizon. There are moments, created by a combination of company, circumstances and environment that relieves you from the issues of the day. The high temperatures of the morning and our friends and family at home in the cold, wet and windy Netherlands are forgotten instantly. The Castle Lager as a perfect companion for one of the finest 'sundowners' that I have ever experienced. It is now 16 years ago when I came in Graaff Reinet for the first time; when we got into conversation by chance with a restaurant owner, and told to him that we where just passing by, his statement was: "You can not leave without seeing the sun go down in the Valley of Desolation." The good man arranged on spot accommodation, we stayed and saw the sun go down in the Valley of Desolation ... Fortunately, there are those valuable things in life that do not change and the 'sunset in the Valley of Desolation' is one of them ... We return to the car and suddenly, just a few yards from the parking lot, suddenly a Kudu antelope raises his head with distinctive horns; a surreal image that contrasts with the rapidly darkening sky. A better, more magical way to end this day, we could not have wished for.


Satisfied and tired of the heat, we go to bed. Fortunately Karoopark guests stay in comfy air conditioned rooms.

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[Two Plugs]

The next day, after an excellent breakfast buffet, we again are on a city tour with Chantal. Graaff-Reinet is really special, for us Dutch mainly because of the role that we played in the history of this beautiful place: it was the farthest inland post of the Dutch East India Company.

Graaff Reinet can be explored by foot easily. Luckily, yesterdays heat wave was of short duration; and we walk at ease and comfortable through the historic center. More than 200 buildings in Graaff Reinet are listed as "National Monument", and Chantal proves to be not only an excellent host and guide, but also knowledgeable in the history of the city. Chantal tells the story in an almost playful way, without being boring or dusty.

The afternoon we decide to spend at the swimming pool of Karoopark. From tomorrow, we won’t have access to the internet so the blogs and pics have to be kept on hold for the next coming two days. We are not alone ... The parking lot is full of brand new VWs, Audi’s and a procession of brand new Mercedesses arrives. The Karoo appears, after Death Valley in the US, to be the new playground for European car manufacturers to come here to test their new cars extensively. The stickers on the cars, especially considering the fact that they are shipped here and tested by German manufacturers, the country without speedlimits on the Autobahn, seems bizarre ...:

"High speed test vehicle approved by government." That’s the bumbersticker I wanna have too!

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A visit to South Africa isn’t proper done without a visit to one of the many Townships. There have been many obvious changes to the Townships since my last visit in 2008. Of course you still see Townships with poor shelters created from rumble, plastic sheeting and chipboard; but increasingly are – on large scale - projects set up provide a simple stone cottage; with electricity and running water. Whether or not organized by the government or a private organization.

The people are very friendly; even though racial segregation still exists in the Townships. People from the most humble origins - often descendants of the original tribes - live poorly; while colored people have now climbed up on the social status to neighborhoods with modest, stone houses, equipped with a green garden and wide, paved streets. Impressive is the visit to the cemetery. A vast necropolis which makes it clear that HIVand AIDS are stil proliferate in the Townships. An estimated 3 to 5 inhabitants of the Townships infected with HIV; death from HIV or AIDS is however a taboo and is not to be mentioned in the death register. You die from an illness, but the course of death will never be named AIDS. It is sad to say that even the president - Jacob Zuma - suggests that after intercourse with an HIV-infected partner, a proper shower with shampoo should wash away this terrible decise...

From Graaff-Reinet we ride in the direction of Nieu Bethesda. It rumbles in the air, and we see the lightning strike over the mountains. The heat wave is definitely over; and we need to put on rain gear for the very first time during this trip. Threatening skies accompany us and create a surreal scenery for us as motorcyclists, and the beautiful landscape of the Karoo. The road to Nieu Bethesda is beautiful. If the asphalt again gives way to gravel, I enjoy the playful nature of the F800 Adventure and the ease with which the BMuu dances across the gravel paths.

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We stop at a local brewery for a small lunch and of course to sample the local beer. The golden ale tastes great, but after two sips of the Dark Roast my guts tell be that I better should change for a coffee. Michael and Johan continieu with the Dark Roast and even a second one... The following evening the toilet becomes a grateful companion for the poor guys Sometimes it is good to rely on your instincts! Nieu Bethesda is a kind of ‘artists' colony. You have to love it; despite that it is a little weird. The village is known for the "Owl House" from "Mrs. Helen”. Helen Martins was marked by a though life. In 1974, she committed suicide by drinking acid. A terrible thought. How deep the scars in your soul should be to take such a dramatic decision? Her house and garden are full of art; for me not the pleasant sight I usually connect with works of fine art. Helen Martins images show a tortured soul. We take pictures, but both Michael if I don’t feel happy in the Owl House. There is a dark, uncomfortable atmosphere in the house. As if the spirit of Mrs. Helen still wonders around ... The book "The Road to Mekka" is loosely based on the life story of Mrs. Helen. I don’t feel encouraged to read it.

We ride out again and after 10 kilometers, once again beautiful, winding gravel roads are making me smile. We arrive at the Ganora Guest Farm just after noon. We are welcomed by owners JP and Hester and when we returned after a short walk on the farmyard - located in a beautifully, lush green valley - and a fantastic diner, we enjoy a fantastic, clear starry sky as you can only witness in Africa.

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JP, the owner of Gonara Guest Farm, does not let us leave without having measured my height. After measuring my 6,8 ft precisely, I seem to be the 2nd tallest guest who has stayed on the Gonara Guest Farm. Above the doorway, a dash is added with a permanent marker. It should not be a surprise that the other tallguy was... Dutch as well.

Before our ride to Cradock, we visit a historical site with ancient petroglyphs (ancient rock art) of the San People, which can be found everywhere in Southern Africa . The top layer of the sediment consists of hard volcanic rock, where softer sedimentary layers are worn away by erosion. Under these overhanging cliffs, the San People found a safe haven and could shelter from the elements. Actually, we dance (with our bikes...) on a volcano!

It is hot - much warmer than 16 degrees Celsius during yesterdays rain - so we saddle the bikes for a ride towards the next guest farm, Low Lands in Cradock.
Johan guides us up to a fantastic route, for almost the entire part on the gravel roads of the Karoo. Both Michael and I are amazed at the ease on which which Johan steers his thick Triumph Thunderbird over the gravel roads. During a short break, Johan gently pets the fat Cruiser on its bulky tank: “Triumph, jou ou doring! Seil behoorlijk oor hierdie lekkere Karoo gruis paaie!!” (“Triumph, you old bastard, I sail together with you over these tasty Karoo gravel roads!”) he shouts on to the social media.

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We wade through several rivers called 'drifts'. The traction control and ABS on the BMuu are once again switched off to enjoy the unpaved roads of the Karoo. Colleague Michael thinks that for the pictures, it would be funny that I, including the BMuu, would ride up on the rocks of the river bed... What the F*, who is the photographer !? I don’t get hazard money paid! What if I would be washed away by a sudden emerging freshwater tsunami, including the Beemer, desperately clinging to the proper bulletproof Motorradical panniers, washed away towards the Indian Ocean? The flood remains off and soon we are both back on the 'gruispad’.

What a great ride today. The Matis Enduro tires of the BMuu eagerly grab the loose gravel and let ferocious dust clouds behind. If we perceive the signs to Low Lands Guest Farm, the driveway turns out to be slightly longer than the average Dutch farm, 10 miles... Ah, who cares? After all, we do enjoy the playful ride that much, that our lunch with Vetkoek, Koeksisters, Melktert and Mrs Balls Chutney can wait a little longer!

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After another great breakfast with fresh tropical fruits we are off and ride to Cradock, the largest town in the area. Again, we enjoy beautiful roads and great views, which has become almost naturally.

In Cradock our stocks are replenished (both motorcycles and their riders) and we continue riding to Sommerset East, but not before Michael stuck a miniature 'wind pump' to the Motorradical topcase of his BMuu. The weather is excellent, sunny, 20 degree Celsius, so actually ideal for motorcycling. 50 Kilometers after Cradock we reach the Dagga Boer Padstal (farmstall) (www.daggaboerfarmstall.co.za) which has been declared as 'best Padstal of South Africa'. The funny thing about the name ... "Dagga" means nothing more or fewer as weed, marihuana as you wish, but let that be the only thing which is NOT available. The fine South African melktert is!

The road winds through the landscape and provides again excellent views. Also notable ...: Roadworks in progress everywhere! I already noticed that the roads are in far better shape as back in 2008, but they are obviously proper maintained too. Slowly, this country is changing to the better. As we get closer to Sommerset East, the vegetation changes: the small bushes that we saw in the Karoo, give way to lush green and high spurge cacti. The fields with sheep and dairy cattle make way for extensive orchards of citrus trees; which on this beautiful, now somewhat humid summer day spread a wonderful fragrance.

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