The holy grail of OIL...

[Two Plugs]

I've started this topic to share experiences regarding oil and oil supplements.

After 6.000 km since I bought the Dero last September, I changed the stock oil (half synthetic 10W40) for full synthetic.

The reason... During my trip in Ireland and Wales (VCIM15) I discovered an 'old' problem which I also had during the run-in period of my previous '04 ABS Dero:
When I had to stop for a intersection, bridge or traffic lights and I haven't geared down to the right gear, shifting down was rather difficult and could only be accomplished by releasing the clutch lever a little. Resulting in a loud 'CLUNCK!' every gear down. Getting in gear from neutral to first was even more difficult.

Last Friday I replaced the stock Honda 10W40 half synthetic oil for a proper full synthetic one (Puttoline). I managed to solve the clunky gearbox on my last Dero by adding the full synthetic (V300 from Motul) so I guessed that the current problem could be solved as well by adding the full synthetic (picture in attachment) Puttoline.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Gear change down is now much, much easier. No more 'cluncks!'.

The reason for this posting... At our annual meeting, last May in Wales, I was told that in some countries, the use of full synthetic oil is NOT recommended for the XL1000V Varadero. Reason? I can't think of one.

It's not the cheapest oil, but it does make a difference.

Karinda's MK1 is now running on full synthetic (changed at 75.000 km marquee from half synthetic to full, currently 165.000 km done and no oil spill at all) and on my previous '04 I managed to ride 100.000 km on full synthetic too.

Oil change interval? Well... I don't like to do it by the book (every 12.000 km). I change oil every 2nd year which would be every 30.000 / 40.000 km. With today's high quality oils this is no problem at all.



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[Jasper]

@Two Plugs - I appreciate and hear what you are saying - change the synthetic oil only every 1-2 years (and we know you have a high mileage (sorry, kilometrage ) but I just can't change my culture even though I'm probably spending more on oil & filters. I guess it's old school?  I changed the Motul after 6-7k kms ...I couldn't leave it in there any longer!

After the first 5-600kms I changed the "stock oil" ...my Vara is a 2009 purchased new in April 2011. Since then I've changed every 5k or so with Castrol 10W40 4 stroke M/C oil. I used the Motul 5000 (?) once and didn't really "feel" any difference. I'm quite happy to make the frequent changes, about 3 times a year, with "regular" M/C oil and filter. Almost 35k km now so another change is due soon...
The only "clunk" is between 1st to 2nd gear sometimes, especially if I'm being "athletic" ...otherwise quite smooth up & down the gears.
I think I posted in the old forum that for many of my previous bikes I simply used regular car engine oil (Duckhams 20W50, Castrol GTX etc) without any issues (e.g.no clutch slip). For me, I think that frequent changing of the oil & filter is the best.  The Vara has only had M/C oil in it!

Same goes for using higher octane gas/petrol ...I normally use the cheapest (name brand) ...I haven't felt or recorded any better performance/mileage with higher octane fuel. I can still crack the throttle, the engine spools up and all I can see are Harleys in the rear view mirror
Sometimes the motor "pops" when rapidly downshifting and slowing down for that tight right hand bend at the bottom of the hill ...and then spools up again with no problem ....what beautiful machine

What to do? 

[Athanman]

Hey Jasper the differences will be more clear after the second time.

[Jasper]

  Here's the deal, I'll use my current stock of regular 10w40 and next time I'll change to full synthetic.
Seriously, what would be a reasonable mileage for synthetic before changing? Does it really last for 1-2 years (@ 15k km per year)?

[Past It]

Google: 'How many miles will synthetic oil last' and you will find 'everyone' is talking about it.

I suspect that if you just topped up the oil the engine would probably still be running well at 100,000 miles.   The problem would probably be the filter.  How long before a filter becomes blocked?

[Two Plugs]

Google: 'How many miles will synthetic oil last' and you will find 'everyone' is talking about it.

I suspect that if you just topped up the oil the engine would probably still be running well at 100,000 km.   The problem would probably be the filter.  How long before a filter becomes blocked?

Valid point, Barry! (the filter). Proper modern days synthetic oils can last much longer than the 'oldfashioned' mineral oils. But the viscosity will still decrease as older the oil gets. Thats the reason I keep my own interval of 2 years either I do only 5.000 km or 50.000...

[Athanman]

Dont forget that synthetic oil or not , under what circumstances and how the rider behaves counts for me . Those  are  the main reasons  for the period that the oil will last .

[Jasper]

Not sure how you could do a "filter only" change without making a bigger mess than often happens? It sits quite low on the motor. Some other bikes have the filter relatively high and on the side so it could be feasible to only change the filter and only "top up" the oil as needed.
I know all engines will consume oil but the Varadero seems to use very little. Then again, there are some who would say that I change the oil before it has time to be used

[Tarwdu]

Very interesting topic.  I suppose only time will tell as there are few stastistics for motorcycles.  As far as lorries or big trucks are concerned there are statistics which show the engines lasting far longer on semi synthetic compared to fully synthetic. (BigDave please pay attention).  Contrary to this I have a 700cc suzuki quad which went totally fukced after only 8000km running on semi 10w/40.  I am partly blaming MarkH from the UK forum as well who rode it about 4 years ago.  Piston and liner costs £650, ouch.

[Past It]

On old British bikes the oil could become contaminated by petrol – you could actually smell the petrol in the oil.   I have not noticed this smell on any of my Japanese bikes – carb or FI.

Do modern engines no longer suffer from petrol contamination of the oil?   Is there any difference in degree of contamination between carb and FI engines?

On carburettor engines it was often easy to run with the choke engaged for too long.

'tarwdu' are you quite sure it was not your bull that fukced your Suzuki

[jackyork]

Petrol in the oil tended to be over rich mixture. worn bores and overuse of the choke in all or varying degrees. i.e. neat petrol running past the piston rings into the crankcase. Modern machining tolerances have all but eliminated this, along with frequent changes of superior modern lubricants.

Be happy.

JK

[welshwizard]

Really interesting topic.
Can I ask if Honda still recommend using semi-synthetic 10W 40 oil on the XL1000?

[Two Plugs]

Really interesting topic.
Can I ask if Honda still recommend using semi-synthetic 10W 40 oil on the XL1000?

Honda does.

[welshwizard]

Sorry to be the pleb on this thread as obviously you guys know what you are talking about, but............why did Honda decide to change the spec of the engine oil it recommends?
Fuel efficiency? Easier for the engine to slosh the new stuff around?
ww

[Two Plugs]

Sorry to be the pleb on this thread as obviously you guys know what you are talking about, but............why did Honda decide to change the spec of the engine oil it recommends?
Fuel efficiency? Easier for the engine to slosh the new stuff around?
ww

I don't know. I always had 10W40 half synthetic in all of my bikes... Now running the Dero on full synthetic.