2004 Varadero, a few little issues discovered

[pngaudioguy]

So I've finally taken all the panels off my Varadero to start taking the plasti-dip product off of them. It looks funny without any of the fairings!


Next, I did a comparison test of WD40 vs Goo Gone to remove the plasti-dip stuff using the panel which I have a replacement for so that if any damage is caused, I won't lose sleep or money over it. I spent about equal time and scrubbing with each. The Goo Gone on top cleaned a much larger area for the effort, and doesn't appear to have had any adverse effects on the sticker, either.


So here were the two unpleasant discoveries. First - the front left fork is definitely seeping oil onto the floor. Once I got the panels off, I can see a very clear crack in the top seal. Looks like I'm going to be taking that apart before riding season starts up again! Hopefully there's not any serious damage in there. I know there's a good writeup on here of rebuilding it, so will be reading through that again for sure.

Second, and much more minor, I noticed that the bike was idling pretty high before I parked it for the winter (1500 RPM after fully warmed up.) I attempted to adjust the idle, but the knob on the side didn't seem to do anything. Looking around with a flashlight, I discovered that the interior end was hanging loose next to the bracket. Unfortunately, to get to it I'm going to have to remove the fuel tank, which looks like it'll be a bear judging by the manual. Oh well, I'll use it as an excuse to check the air filter while I'm in there...

Third, the two tabs on the bottom of the seat have been jammed in. Apparently, the seat was put on at least once by forcing it down to engage the lock instead of starting towards the rear and sliding forward. There are cracks down each side of the plastic. I haven't investigated to see if I can add some reinforcement behind it somehow to enable proper connection again. That would explain the uncomfortable ridge I was feeling right around the center of the seat...

[pngaudioguy]

Here's where the afternoon with goo gone and a bunch of scrubbing got me. Once I finish out the other half, it'll need a good wash to clean off all the residue, then a bit of wax to make it shiny again, but I'm really pleased with the progress so far.

It's not going to be "furtive" anymore!

[Bruvex]

Nice work done

[Jasper]

Well done! Patience is the key...
Tank is easy to remove, just be careful with the petcocks...they open VERY easily! Make  a note of the hose connections under the tank.
With the tank off, you may as well measure the valve clearances...you've done the hard work! 

Hardest part for the fork seals was fiddling with the front fender. Again, once you've done the hard work, you may as well replace both fork seals, fluids etc

Good luck and enjoy working on your baby

[V Saarela]

One of the similar hoses can bee loosen about 20 cm down, left side near the frame. Much easier and you don´t then mix up them
 

[pngaudioguy]

Thanks for the tips on the tank. I've got the service manual, so can figure out where all the connection points are, but the tip to use an alternate disconnect on the left side is a great idea to make things even more obvious.

I hadn't thought about checking the valves - I guess that's not a bad idea, either...

[pngaudioguy]

Went to measure my valve clearances, and realized that my feeler gauge is leftover from when I was doing only lawn mower maintenance. My other Honda (XR650L) hasn't hit the mileage to need an adjustment yet, so I hadn't picked one up. I went over to Stock in Ath, Belgium to try and buy one, but apparently they don't have them there despite having just about every other tool known to mankind. I'll be ordering one on Amazon shortly. It's ok, as I need to take the forks apart and see what parts are in need of replacement there, anyway. Hopefully just the seals!

Is it ok to rest the weight of the motorcycle on a stand under the engine pan (assuming I make sure I don't catch the exhaust headers, of course)? I put my stand under there and was not very confident with the amount of wobble it seemed to have. Is there a better method of getting the front end suspended to detach the forks? Thanks again for your thoughts,

pngaudioguy

[Bønne]

If you´ve got centerstand on your Vara, then put some weight on the luggage rack/into the topbox 

[pngaudioguy]

No center stand, unfortunately. That would be optimal for sure. I would feel much more comfortable with the weight on a stand, and this other stand just as a prop than actual load bearing.

[Madero]

Without a centerstand it is not gonna be easy nor stable.
How about hoisting it from the ceiling, with the ropes round the front yoke (or something like that)
 

[pngaudioguy]

Madero - I actually thought about that. The garage does have a concrete ceiling, so with the appropriate anchors, it would probably be just fine. My farmer landlord probably wouldn't even notice as long as I pull the bolts out before the end of rental inspection. A couple pulleys and some good steel wire...

[Madero]

Madero - I actually thought about that. The garage does have a concrete ceiling, so with the appropriate anchors, it would probably be just fine. My farmer landlord probably wouldn't even notice as long as I pull the bolts out before the end of rental inspection. A couple pulleys and some good steel wire...

Hmmmmm
Anchors in a concrete ceiling......
Don't know if that is gonna work. I was actually thinking about connecting the ropes to a horizontal overhead beam or something like that.
Some other altenatives:
- have the job completely done by a dealer
- find a friend with a more appropiate garage/workshop
- visit a DIY workshop  ( local bikers club?)
- construct a large tripod ( like we used to do at the boyscouts)

But in fact I think that buying yourself a centerstand is the best solution for now and future situations ( oil change, brakepad replacement, lubricating chain, changing tyres etc)

 

[pngaudioguy]

I'm leaning towards the center stand idea, but haven't quite justified it yet. Got an afternoon off work, so finally had a chance to put a few more hours into the bike. Got the covers off, and the valves measured.

Because the feeler gauge I ordered came from the US, and most of my work will be done there, it's whole number values are in inches, with the metric equivalents being significantly less easy to note.

Front intake: .006 in (.152 mm) - spot on
Front exhaust: .009 in (.254 mm) - this one is out of spec, needs new shims
Rear intake: .007 in (.178 mm) - acceptable
Rear exhaust: .011 in (279 mm) - borderline of spec, probably needs shims

Because it makes turning the cylinders over much easier, I pulled the plugs. I'm a little surprised at how different the two look. The one on the left looks nearly perfect, but the one on the right (from the front cylinder) almost looks like it's running hot or lean. Could this be related to the exhaust shims being too tight?

[Skye]

http://www.bs-motoparts.com/en/paddock-stands/motorcycle-lift/motorcycle-jack-scissor-hydraulic-lift-constands-l-black-i4014-12118-0.htm

[pngaudioguy]

Funny - I just picked up a hydraulic lift this morning to do exactly that! Haha. Decided that would be the easiest and most cost effective way to go.

Any thoughts on the plug color from anyone? Related to the exhaust valve shims, or something else?