Author Topic: Chain and sprocket  (Read 6538 times)

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djcat

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Chain and sprocket
« on: July 30, 2013, 15:20:51 »
Hello,

was told yesterday that I have just another 1000 Km left on my actual set of chain and sprockets. Its the first time I need to change that on a bike (had a BMuu before...) and I was quoted 140Pounds for the job including parts.

I want to use quality parts, so I hope you can recommend me some. I found some recommendation for X - ring type chains instead of O - ring types, do you concur?

Also as I am going to the US for a week next month I can buy the set over there. Would that be worth it price wise? Am getting some gear anyway....

Thanks,

DJ

Madero

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2013, 16:56:22 »
Had the same just a month ago. My dealer quoted me €235,= (£200) for job and new chainset. Bought a new Regina-set for €145,= and did the job myself saving €90 !

There will undoubtly some/little quality difference between famous brands (Tsubaki, DID, etc) but Regina is a well known chainbrand and I was happy with the offered price.

Because i had no "chainpunch", and was not willing to spend another €100 in buying one, i had my chain "closed" by my dealer. The closed chain can just be installed between your exhaust and left forkarm (you might have to loosen the upper exhaust fixingbolt a bit).

V Saarela

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2013, 17:48:13 »
When I change on my Varadero I like to replace it with JT sprockets. O-rings, X-rings is no matter I Think.

I´ve a film when replacing the to an endless chain. It took me about 6 minutes to take of the chain.



 

Madero

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2013, 19:35:26 »
A Regina chainset consists of a Regina chain + 2 JT sprockets!
 ;)

djcat

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2013, 01:06:18 »
When I change on my Varadero I like to replace it with JT sprockets. O-rings, X-rings is no matter I Think.

I´ve a film when replacing the to an endless chain. It took me about 6 minutes to take of the chain.




Is it really as easy to change the chain and sprockets as it looks in your video???  :o

Which tools do I need?

And which one is the best chain for the job? I need something that does withstand dry spells and water, I commute into London and when the dark season starts again, I don't think I will be as bothered to lube the chain every time I get home...especially in the wet...

Thank you!

V Saarela

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2013, 19:53:09 »
Yes, it´s easy to replace an endless chain. Sure it takes more time first time. Of course, you have to take of the rear wheel when replacing the rear sprocket, but that was understood?

You do not need any special tools for the work: Few ring spanners, few hex and a drive socket used example for the front sprocket bolt.

The upper bolt on the exhaust is easy to loose on SD03. The plastic on SD01-02(99-06) covers the exhaust bolt and you may have to take of the bracket and the plastic under the saddle. Little bit more work, but as I said.....second time you do that in no time.

My last chainkit, I lube my chain only twice and adjust also twice and I got out 25.000kms from it. You do not need to lube it every time you have a ride, even in wet conditions. Only, don´t use high pressure directly on the chain when washing the bike.

About the chainkit.....you have get some good suggestions above.


Jasper

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2013, 03:04:46 »
I already had a chain "tool" and for the first time I riveted the chain off the bike...so much easier.
I replaced with JT sprockets and DID 525 "expensive" gold chain :)
I had 30k kms from the OE chainset. Front was worn but rear was not too bad.
2017 Africa Twin DCT (Ruby), 2009 Varadero (Jasper), 1981 Suzuki GS750 (non-runner)

Madero

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2013, 17:33:53 »
Nice video Veijo!

Small (but logical)  tip to djcat, not shown in the video :

If you're gonna change the sprockets as well (recommended!) you've got to loosen the frontsprocketnut with the old chain still mounted. I've put a piece of wood through my rearwheel (on top of my rearfork)  to prevent the sprocket turning when you loosen it. To tighten the nut stick the wood underneath the fork.
(You an also ask a second person to apply the rearbreak )

For tightening the nuts at the required torque I use a torquewrench

If you'd like to lube your chain very frequently you can consider mounting a Scott-oiler. Two-plugs has a brand new one for sale at the moment.

Two Plugs

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2013, 00:08:22 »
I have... Tnx Madero for the free advert!  ;D
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djcat

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2013, 00:40:24 »
Yes, I like the idea of a Scot Oiler but hate the price...even if semi-used/like new (sorry two plugs).

I am flirting with the Tutoro system though:

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload/Ride%20Magazine/Product%20test%20pdfs/Chain%20oiler%20test.pdf

Anybody tried the dry carbon block thingy?

http://www.carbonforbikes.com/

Too expensive for me tightward, too...but maybe in the future some competitor will do.

Two Plugs

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2016, 16:07:09 »
Ah, the continuing fairy of the auto oiler...  ;D

How I do it...

Get a proper spraycan, I really love Motul Chain Lube Offroad. Costs: ca € 14,-. Sticks on the chain like clue and not on the entire back side of the bike, use apr 1 spraycan every 2 years (20.000km). I only do the maintenance (spraying the chain) once every 1.000 km (once every 500 km in heavy rain or dirt) and never clean the chain. I never over-grease the chain, and only apply the spray on the INSIDE of the chain after a ride, when the metal of the chain is still expanded due to the temperature caused by the friction. I'm still on the original set: currently at the 35.120km marque and there is no visible sign of wear.

Note... I do use the bike for long distance touring only, not much stop-and-go.

Prefer chains and sprockets from established brands like Regina or D.I.D. but that's a personal choice and prevalence. Currently on O-ring chain, have tried X-ring in the past but wasn't really able to notice a big advantage between the two types.
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Captain Scooby

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2016, 03:11:31 »
Multi-tec Molylube. A multi-purpose clear liquid grease. Sprays on as a liquid and sets to a tacky grease. Multi Lube was originally designed to service mining equipment,  so it is pretty good. Suitable for use on boat trailers, chains, cables, farm machinery. Makes an excellent spray on chain lube with high adhesive qualities. Sprays on and into joints as a jet then foams up under atmospheric pressure to form a foaming, clear grease. I use it in chains, carbie linkages, ignition barrels....anything that moves. Unlike WD40, lasts for ages. Don't get it on your hands. Mission impossible to remove.

Captain Scooby

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2016, 06:12:02 »
There you go. Dyslexia kicking in.
Molytec Multi Lube 300g Aerosol

Two Plugs

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #13 on: October 09, 2016, 01:24:10 »
 VCIF_ok

Tnx for the tip, Captain! Where to purchase? Wouldn't mind to give it a try.
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Captain Scooby

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Re: Chain and sprocket
« Reply #14 on: October 09, 2016, 01:50:46 »
I get mine from an indepedent bearing supplies engineering store. But then I am just a tight a#@e who does not like to pay top dollar for bearings when I can get 316 stainless wheel and swing arm bearings that will never rust for less. If you can't source from engineers supplies you will have to try online. I tried ebay once but no-one had it.

 

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